Getting Your Bike Ready After Months in the Shed

Spring has arrived, the weather's improving, and you've remembered you own a bike. But it's been sitting in the shed since last summer. Is it safe to ride? Here's what to check — and what to watch out for.

Why bikes deteriorate when they're not ridden

You might think that not riding a bike keeps it in good condition. Unfortunately, the opposite is often true. Bikes that sit unused suffer from:

• Flat tyres — inner tubes lose air naturally over weeks and months
• Seized cables — moisture gets inside cable housing and causes corrosion
• Rusty chain — even in a dry shed, chains oxidise without lubrication
• Hardened brake pads — rubber compounds harden over time, reducing braking power
• Cracked tyres — UV light and temperature changes degrade rubber
• Stiff bearings — grease dries out in headsets, hubs, and bottom brackets

The 10-point check before you ride

Before you head out, work through this checklist. You don't need any special tools — just your hands and eyes.

1. Tyres

Squeeze both tyres. If they're soft or flat, pump them up to the pressure printed on the tyre sidewall. While you're at it, check for cracks, cuts, or bulges in the rubber. Cracked tyres should be replaced — they're prone to blowouts.

2. Brakes

Squeeze each brake lever. The pads should contact the rim (or rotor) firmly before the lever reaches the handlebar. If the lever pulls all the way to the bar, or the brakes feel weak, they need adjusting or new pads.

3. Chain

Look at the chain. If it's orange with rust, stiff, or makes crunching noises when you turn the pedals, it needs cleaning and lubricating — or replacing entirely if it's badly corroded.

4. Gears

Lift the back wheel and turn the pedals while clicking through the gears. They should shift smoothly without skipping or hesitating. Sticky shifting usually means cable stretch or seized cables.

5. Wheels

Spin each wheel and watch it pass the brake pads. If it wobbles side to side, the wheel needs truing. Check that the quick-release levers (or thru-axles) are tight.

6. Headset

Stand over the bike, squeeze the front brake, and rock the bike forward and back. If you feel a clunk or knocking, the headset bearings are loose and need tightening.

7. Seat and seatpost

Try twisting the saddle. It shouldn't move. If the seatpost has seized (stuck in the frame), don't force it — this needs careful attention to avoid damaging the frame.

8. Pedals

Spin each pedal on its axle. It should rotate freely without grinding. Check the pedals are tight in the cranks (left pedal is reverse-threaded).

9. Lights and reflectors

If you have battery lights, check they work. Replace batteries if needed. Make sure reflectors are still attached and visible.

10. Overall feel

Take a very short, slow ride in a safe area. Listen for unusual noises — clicks, creaks, grinding. Feel for anything that doesn't seem right. Trust your instincts.

When to call a mechanic

Some issues are easy to sort yourself (pumping tyres, lubing a chain). Others need professional attention:

• Seized cables — need replacing, not just adjusting
• Badly rusted chain — needs replacing along with a cassette check
• Brakes that won't adjust properly — may need new pads, cables, or bleeding (hydraulic)
• Wheels that won't stay true — broken or loose spokes
• Seized seatpost — needs careful extraction to avoid frame damage
• Any grinding or crunching from bearings — headset, bottom bracket, or hubs

A basic service (£35) covers all of these checks and adjustments. It's the quickest way to get a neglected bike back to a safe, rideable condition.

How to prevent this next time

• Store your bike indoors — a dry garage or shed is much better than outside
• Pump the tyres monthly — even if you're not riding
• Lube the chain before storing — a light coat of oil prevents rust
• Cover the bike — a simple dust cover keeps moisture and dirt off
• Book an annual service — even if you only ride occasionally