Squeaky brakes are one of the most common complaints we hear. They're annoying, embarrassing, and sometimes a sign of a real problem. Here's what causes brake noise and what you can do about it.

Rim brakes (V-brakes, caliper brakes)

Rim brakes squeeze rubber pads against the wheel rim. Noise usually comes from vibration between the pad and the rim surface.

Common causes

  • Glazed brake pads — the pad surface becomes hard and shiny from heat, reducing grip and causing squealing
  • Dirty rims — oil, road grime, or brake pad residue on the rim creates noise
  • Worn brake pads — pads worn past the wear line lose their braking compound
  • Incorrect toe-in — pads should contact the rim at a slight angle (front of pad touches first)
  • Wet conditions — water on rims causes temporary squealing that usually stops as they dry

What you can try

  • Clean the rims with isopropyl alcohol or a degreaser and a clean cloth
  • Scuff the brake pads with sandpaper to remove the glazed surface layer
  • Check pad alignment — the front of the pad should touch the rim slightly before the back (toe-in)
  • Replace worn pads — if you can't see the wear indicator grooves, they need replacing

Disc brakes (mechanical and hydraulic)

Disc brakes use pads that squeeze a metal rotor attached to the wheel hub. They're more powerful but can be noisy if contaminated or misaligned.

Common causes

  • Contaminated pads or rotors — the number one cause. Oil from fingers, spray lubricant, or road spray gets on the braking surface
  • New brake pads not bedded in — new pads need a break-in period to work properly
  • Misaligned caliper — the caliper isn't centred over the rotor, causing rubbing
  • Warped rotor — a bent rotor contacts the pads unevenly
  • Glazed pads — same as rim brakes, the pad surface hardens

What you can try

  • Clean the rotor with isopropyl alcohol and a clean cloth — never use WD-40 or general degreasers
  • Bed in new pads — find a safe hill and do 10-15 moderate stops from moderate speed
  • Check caliper alignment — loosen the caliper bolts, squeeze the brake lever, and retighten while holding
  • Sand contaminated pads lightly — this can sometimes save mildly contaminated pads

When to call a mechanic

  • Brakes feel weak or spongy — hydraulic brakes may need bleeding
  • Grinding metal-on-metal sound — pads are completely worn and the backing plate is damaging the rotor
  • Contaminated pads that won't clean up — usually need replacing
  • Warped rotor — needs straightening or replacing
  • Persistent noise after cleaning — there may be a deeper alignment or component issue
Hydraulic brake bleeding with a Park Tool mineral oil syringe

Bleeding a hydraulic brake — restores firm lever feel and consistent stopping power

Prevention tips

  • Never spray lubricant near brakes — lube your chain with the wheel removed, or shield the rotor
  • Don't touch rotors or pads with bare hands — skin oils contaminate braking surfaces
  • Clean your bike regularly — road grime builds up on braking surfaces
  • Replace pads before they're completely worn — metal-on-metal contact damages rotors and rims

Brakes not right?

We sort brake problems on the spot — pad replacement, cable adjustment, hydraulic bleeding, rotor straightening. We come to you.

Call 07530 176721 Brake services →