Buying a Second-Hand Bike: Inspection Checklist

A second-hand bike can be excellent value — or an expensive disappointment. Here's what to check before you buy, and what problems mean you should walk away.

Walk away immediately if...

• The frame is cracked or bent: Look carefully around the welds, bottom bracket, and head tube. Any crack is a deal-breaker.
• The fork is bent: Stand at the front of the bike and look along the fork legs — they should be symmetrical and straight.
• Severe corrosion inside the frame: Tap the down tube and seat tube — a dull, flaky sound suggests internal rust.

Check the headset

Apply the front brake and rock the bike — any clunking or knocking means the headset is loose or worn. Turn the bars — roughness or tight spots mean the bearings are pitted.

Check the wheels

• Spin each wheel and check for side-to-side wobble (buckle)
• Rock the wheel from side to side at the rim — any play means worn hub bearings
• Check for cracked or damaged rims
• Check spoke tension by plucking — all should have similar tension

Check the brakes

• Squeeze both levers firmly — firm feel, good bite well before the bar
• Check pad thickness and condition
• Spin wheels and check for brake rub

Check the drivetrain

• Shift through all gears — each should engage cleanly
• Check chain condition — is it rusty, stiff, or stretched?
• Look at cassette teeth — shark-fin profile means it needs replacing
• Turn cranks by hand — any roughness or grinding in the bottom bracket?

Check the tyres

• Look for sidewall cracking, cuts, or bulges
• Check tread wear — worn smooth means new tyres needed

What's negotiating leverage

A chain that needs replacing (£15–£25), worn brake pads (£10–£30 per pair), or a slightly out-of-true wheel (£20–£30 to fix) — all reasonable to factor into a lower offer.